2004 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru
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DescriptionDomaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France 2004
Stephen TanzerPale yellow color. Lime, truffle and a whiff of flinty reduction on the nose. Very backward and slow to evolve, with strong acidity that has not yet harmonized with the wine's fruit. The firm-edged finish is distinctly spicy.
BURGHOUND(with thanks to Dr. Reed Day). It seems as though it's no longer a matter of whether the '04 BBM is reduced but just how reduced and this latest bottle was seriously reduced, indeed to the point where it completely dominated the nose. Other bottles certainly have displayed some but not completely at the expense of the hallmark honeysuckle aromas. The tight, and still quite backward, vibrant medium-bodied plus flavors possess real richness, volume and more structure than I typically find yet the balance is absolutely impeccable. The vibrancy and energy here are most impressive but one has to begin to wonder if the reduction hasn't become permanent? If it has it won't make the wine unpleasant but it will deprive of us of the enjoyment of the nose. In view of this potential difficulty (especially since it appears to be the case with the '04 Clavoillons - see herein), I have lowered my score somewhat. Optimists will want to continue to cellar it and that is what I would advise.