2005 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
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DescriptionDomaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 2005
WINE ADVOCATEFrom vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface.
Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity.
VINOUSFull, deep red. Distinctly darker and more medicinal on the nose than the '06, offering aromas of blacker fruits, licorice, menthol, bitter chocolate and espresso; some notes of crushed wild red fruits emerged with aeration. Very densely packed and remarkably primary; considerably less evolved than the 2009, 2008 or 2007. Began supple, fine-grained and light on its feet, with dominant flavors of dark berries, crushed rock and eucalyptus (I was reminded of Chambertin) but shut down hard in the glass. Finishes classically dry and impressively long, with outstanding sappy energy and lingering violet perfume, with the serious firm tannins successfully enrobed by the wine's palate-saturating fruit. An extraordinary, very powerful wine with a great future, but don't make the mistake of drinking it anytime soon. Incidentally, when I brought up the subject of coccinelles as we tasted the 2004 Charmes, Pierre-Jean noted that the estate also saw some ladybugs in 2005, but we certainly don't feel them here.
BURGHOUNDA subtle but not invisible application of wood frames the ripe and still almost entirely primary aromas of earthy and spicy red and dark currant scents that are trimmed in a touch of menthol. There is outstanding richness to the full-bodied and muscular big-bodied flavors that coat the palate the seemingly endless reserves of dry extract that also serves to buffer the hugely long if slightly warm finish. This is clearly still in its infancy and it would be largely pointless to open a bottle now as the '05 TVV is nowhere close to its apogee but the "can't miss" development potential is manifest.