2005 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
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DescriptionDomaine Francois Raveneau Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru, France 2005
STEPHEN TANZERPale yellow. Brisk, pure aromas of citrus skin, powdered stone, quinine and iodine. Juicy and citric on entry, then supple and rich in the middle, but with superb energy giving shape and grip to the lemon-lime, citrus, stone and floral flavors. Conveys an impression of sucrosite but also comes across as wonderfully fresh and taut. Pure, palate-dusting, rising finish boasts terrific lift and aromatic perfume. Valmur is favored in hot years, notes Raveneau. "The vines here run north-south, which enables them to resist the mid-day sun and retain freshness."
BURGHOUNDA fully mature nose is at once ripe yet cool with beautifully layered aromas of apple, oyster shell and iodine wisps. The full-bodied, powerful and concentrated flavors that are naturally sweet, intense and impressively constituted flavors that culminate in an overtly mineral-driven finale that, even at 16 years of age, stains the palate. 2005 is not the most elegant of vintages yet this particular example is more refined than most. To my taste, this has arrived at its apogee though it should have no trouble holding there for another decade. Excellent.