2006 Kongsgaard Chardonnay
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DescriptionThe idiosyncratic, but brilliant producer of Chardonnay, Roussanne/Viognier, Syrah, and more recently, Cabernet Sauvignon, John Kongsgaard, and his low-tech, artisinal winemaking style have had an enormous influence on many top northern California winemakers.
Vinous (Stephen Tanzer)Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of lemon curd, minerals and crushed stone, lifted by citrus zest. Intensely flavored but youthfully austere, with brisk acid giving grip and shape to the complex notes of spices, flowers, herbs and minerals.
Robert ParkerThe 2006 Chardonnay reveals high acidity. When I tasted it at age 12 months, it had still not had any SO2 added, and it was still on its primary lees. I have written at length about Kongsgaard’s belief that Chardonnay has to first die in the barrel, then resurrect itself, and unless a winemaker has the guts to watch that happen, it is doubtful they will achieve the complexity that Kongsgaard does on a routine basis. The 2006 is young, primary, and elegant with plenty of citrus and tangerine oil characteristics as well as hints of quince and crushed rocks. It should prove to be long-lived given its acid profile.