2007 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Les Vergers Clos Saint-Marc, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France
|4 in stock
4 in stock
DescriptionDomaine Jean-Marc Pillot Les Vergers Clos Saint-Marc, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 2007
WINE ADVOCATEFrom conspicuously high above Chassagne and the core Vergers vineyard and, like his Baudines, picked near the end of harvest, Pillot's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers Clos Saint-Marc soars from the glass with grapefruit, iris, buddleia, tangerine, red currant, wood smoke and a pungent whiff of white pepper. Superbly concentrated yet elegant, vivacious, and crystal clear in its interchange of citrus and berries with salt, pepper, chalk and crustacean essence, this displays grand cru class. Satiny in texture, it escapes any sense of austerity even given its brightness and mineral cast. All of this concentrated and explosive flavor, Pillot is keen to point out, originates in fruit of barely over 12% natural alcohol (although chaptalized to 13.2%), just one of several features here that put me a bit in mind of great Riesling. Alas, there are only four barrels, but should you be lucky enough to acquire some of this, I would recommend trying to stretch it out over a decade.
VINOUSPure but closed nose hints at mandarin orange, cold stone, minerals and mint. Dense, sappy and brisk, with considerable power and thrust to the lemon and pineapple flavors; a hint of smoky oak adds complexity. I find this distinctly musclebound today (Pillot describes it as "a block of concrete") in spite of its creamy middle and sneaky sweetness. Finishes very long but youthfully tight. These 2007s are beautifully ripe, and this one is a real essence of the vintage. As young as this wine appears to be, I still wouldn't risk burying it too deep in the cellar.