2009 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Chambertin Grand Cru
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DescriptionDomaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 2009
ANTONIO GALLONI(50% new oak, the same as the Chapelle-Chambertin): Good medium red. Wonderfully complex, high-pitched nose combines musky raspberry, strong minerality, lavender and wild herbs; soil-driven but not earthy. Like liquid silk on entry, then sappy and imploded in the mouth, with complex soil hints, no hard edges and a wonderfully light touch for such a seamless wine. Less high-pitched than the nose suggests, but this amazingly fine-grained Chambertin is lifted and framed by superb mineral energy. Really explodes with aeration, finishing with noble tannins and a powerful impression of terroir. This should evolve in bottle for decades.
ROBERT PARKERThe 2009 Chambertin shows some of the openness of the Chapelle but the structural elements more closely resemble the Latricieres. If that sounds appealing, believe me, it is. Trapet’s Chambertin exudes class and pedigree in its impeccable layered fruit, gorgeous detail and silky, textured finish. Striking, beautifully delineated aromatics are woven throughout. Simply put, the Chambertin is a must-have wine in this vintage. In 2009 the Chambertin was made with 40% whole clusters, slightly more than normal. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2049.
This is a beautiful set of wines from Jean-Louis Trapet. The estate farms their vineyards biodynamically. After fermentation the wines are kept in a cold part of the cellar to delay the malolactic fermentations. When I visited in March 2011, the 2010s had not even begun their malos. In 2009 the harvest started on September 18. The wines spent about 18 days on the skins prior to being racked into barrel, where they stayed on their lees with no rackings until they were bottled with no fining or filtration. The amount of whole clusters ranged from 30% to 60%, while the use of new barrels ranged from 30% to 50%. The 2009s were bottled in February 2011, four to six weeks earlier than normal. Trapet is among the growers who believe the 2009s will not shut down in bottle. I was also quite taken with the selection of 2008s I tasted. Burgundy fans will find much to admire in both vintages. The house style tends towards the firm, classic end of the spectrum, so a measure of patience is required, even for the 2009s.
BURGHOUNDA relatively high-toned nose that is cool, restrained and notably more floral offers up notes of stone, game, underbrush, humus and a noble vegetal note on the red cherry and cassis suffused nose. The intensely mineral-driven and vibrant flavors possess real muscle and drive continue onto the very firm, palate staining and youthfully austere finish. Like the Latricières, this fantastic effort will best suit the patient as this is very unlikely to develop quickly. In short, this is a knockout.